holley sniper efi iac problems

Note too that the larger the throttle stab, the more brief the time in that cell and the more gradual the change.Here's what I recommend: Get somewhere where you can repeatedly stop and go. 680-700.I can't find any reason other than it looses where it is in the firmware with Jun 12, 2021. Sniper EFI Problems - Holley Performance Products Forums When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. If you did not rotate the distributor to set the actual timing to 15 that might be the only issue. So, clearly, the "No" answer is wrong. you have it set. Have you checked your fuel filter and made sure it's not plugged?If both of these are okay you're going to have to find a way to monitor your fuel pressure while under load. When I am coming to a stop, the rpms will hang at 1200-1500 rpms. Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? If the regulator is working correctly and there is no restriction in the return line that should make no difference however.Sorry I didn't see this on the Holley forum. If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. No air should be able to pass. An undersized or partially plugged fuel filter is a classic EFI installation mistake. It will still change a bit with weather changes and when you get into infrequently-used sections of the map, but it's nothing to worry about.Regarding your idle speed immediately after start-up, that is determined by your Idle Parked Position. Featured Products EFI - Fuel Injection $2.59 - $6,499.95 2179 Products View Parts Sensors There is a chance that the IAC is open but displaying 0% so start by putting your finger over the IAC opening. Target AFR, A / F = 13.5 Great work, expert! Thanks. Fuel Flow lb / h = 12.1 )Take a look at your AFR during the starting process. Capability Range: Advanced I.e. We have never had that problem with any of the units that we have shipped. Thanks for your very detailed question! And all too often we don't take that extra step of using a piston stop to ensure that the timing pointer is on zero when the engine is truly and exactly at top dead center. Take it a step at a time. Idle Tuning is a very important part of tuning any EFI system, especially our self-learning units like Sniper or Terminator X EFI. The "PC Text" indicates what will be shown on the PC/Laptop data monitor or data logger. Any suggestions would be appreciated. In the wizard I set my Idle to 500RPM but it never got slower than 800RPM, if I run the wizard again and lower to 400 RPM then it never gets lower than 700RPM.After reading about the Idle Speed curver I checked its settings and found that the curve was 300rpm faster at every point over the temp range no matter what temp I had, I adjusted the curve to match what I put in on the wizard and now the RPM is correct, I'd say you have a bug in the wizard.Idle Speed > Idle Speed Curve: Here is where the lack of coolant temperature is going to affect you. On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750. I have certainly seen this before on other fuel injected vehicles when hot. to. The small rubber plug had a leak. But if the idle is a little bit higher then it doesn't have to jump quite as much in response to the load, and tends to react a little bit more smoothly. The learn percentage should gradually decrease to virtually nothing as the map plus learn table begin to get more and more accurate to your specific setup. That will happen occasionally, but less as time goes and on and the engine tune stabilizes. Ive also used another snap on light to confirm. Any help would b great. If you look down and your TPS is 2% then either your throttle is stuck slightly open (which itself will cause the idle-up) or RFI riding on the TPS signal has caused the ECU to see the throttle as open and, as a result, open the IAC to the hold position. Look over all of your vacuum lines and fittings. At 0% it shouldn't be sucking any air through that port, correct? Well, it sounds to me like your Sniper is doing its best to reduce your idle. The noise changes sound with the throttle position. Worst case you'll have a spare on hand, and if the TPS is faulty you will have solved the mystery. Once you have done this the challenge is to create a datalog that includes the ":snap" you describe. I keep doing that with the same result. You could go either way.. % = 49 I would gladly engage with you to solve this but ultimately you are going to need to go through whomever you purchased the system if a warranty return is in order. However I do have a couple of issues I hope you can help me resolve. I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. A common issue we see is a result of poor fuel pump grounding running a eyelet from the pump ground to a rusty or painted surface. I installed a sniper efi system on my 1969 Camaro. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. I did notice that when I thought I had it set That's a nice change of pace--a low idle issue! Since a key cycle resets it to 0 and out to 30 or wherever Since it is unlikely that anything else changed it is most likely the IAC is problematic or the butterflies are not shut all the way. At idle my IAC is 3-4, AFR around 13-14, TPS is 0, timing 15-17. Some have suggested mis-setting sets the idle speed at 850 RPM but I suspect it is not a fixed number but rather a delta of about 300 RPM above the target. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? That is the default "Clear Flood" TPS setting and turns all fuel off until the engine cranks. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. Should i adjust idle screw with the fans already on? We're having trouble with a Ford Maverick 302 V8, using ethanol. Add To Cart. When you open your IAC to 30% you are naturally going to have a high idle condition. This minimizes installation time and packages really well on a diverse group of engine applications. I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. NOTE: Do not attempt to set the target idle speed and IAC position until the engine is above 160F! I'm new to EFI and have no idea what to try next. Seems to behave more better now. The engine makes very low vacuum at idle. Now, 1% on the TPS isn't a problem, but when it goes to 2% (which is inevitable if you have RFI moving it to 1%) then the IAC is going to go to it's hold position (30% by default) and the engine is going to rev up. Thank you very much. The car would idle, I could hit the gas rev the car up and it ran great I also noticed two nice black spots on my garage floor from the exhaust. You advise would be greatly appreciated. Any suggestions? Either the Walbro pumps you are getting are not genuine (lots of forgeries being sold) or else you have something that is killing them. Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.neral-IAC-Info, http://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf, https://forums.holley.com/showthread-Idle-Solution, If this is your first visit, be sure to Hi Chris I didn't get any traction on Holley.com I took some pics of the sensors page this morning after the car warmed up. Thank you chris for for getting back to me on this matter.I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. Your AFR is pegged lean. But if I take off from a stop and go to 1/4 or 1/2 throttle its fine and takes off like a banshee. I've changed all the That is what I really respect about Holley. Thank you. I have double checked everythingincluding fuel pressureand have followed the directions to a T.I plan on trying your 10 step process as soon as I get a chance. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. Also its extremely rich at idle. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. TP range is normal goes up to about 90% with throttle pedal to the floor. I installed the Sniper on my 1978 Ford F-100 with a small block The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. (Don't drive and watch--get a helper!) I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. Hope this helps! Except at idle. Even then, recognize that over time the IAC will need to be readjusted to compensate for minor changes that will cause it to drift. Sometimes it sounds like it wants to crank at the start but runs out of gas. Don't know if I should put this in a separate post. If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start. The fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper is fairly simple and not prone to failure, as far as I know. If there's any run time on your current setup the Sniper may have some bad learn data due to what appears to be timing issues. In the time it takes to add your email address you can be at the top of the heap for getting the latest information from our authority. Does this seem reasonable and how hard will it be to get the idle and off-idle performance correct? IAC Testing Procedure for EFI Systems Without it you are working in the dark. If I rev the engine a couple times in neutral it will finally return to idle & usually will not do it again for the rest of my trip. As I said above, you could have a bad IAC, but then again, the IAC might be fine and there's a deeper problem such as RFI noise causing the issue or a vacuum leak that is confusing things. Tps is saying 26% when it at idle. started up the engine. Drive great and idles perfect at stop signs. Price Point: $$$. I have a feeling it's something simple but I thought I'd ask you first before I inadvertently change something that affects other areas. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. Once it decides to come back down, it does so with no issue. :-). Two months fighting, cursing, not getting any help from Holley OR the forum, and a stupid little tin plate. no timing control. Also when ac kicks on it will idle down and stall. What should I be looking at to calm this down? sniper Installation If you're installing a Sniper EFI system and almost ready to crank it over for the first time, this is the video for you! The Fuel Base map is perfect, the car works well, runs well, running through the streets, the car is great. In the warm state IAC adjusted to a position of 2 to 10%. You can disable the idle spark control at the locations below. So check that timing and I think that you're going to find you need a good bit of advance. Engine warms up to 195 degrees and stays. Sniper EFI offers superior throttle response and wide-open throttle power. Then a little faster--until bogs at that level work themselves out. One of the most common symptoms of a Holley Sniper EFI problem is an air/fuel mixture that's too rich or too lean. me know how it works for you. 1. IAC Calibration / Hanging rpms | Team Chevelle But I can tell you that for most people who try this it introduces so much RFI onto the Sniper that it never works right. ps. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. The fact that it ran so (at times) with 90+ PSI fuel pressure is a testimony to the Holley's closed-loop technology.

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